UVB can tan our skin sunburn, and even cause skin inflammation and damage the skin barrier in a short time. UVA will stimulate our skin to produce more melanin (that is, tanning), and it will also deepen the skin and destroy collagen, leading to accelerated skin aging and fine lines, wrinkles, and spots. In other words, the various symptoms of skin aging that we can see are basically (75% -80%) caused by the culprit of ultraviolet rays.
So the most effective shortcut for whitening is: Don’t touch UV! Solve the problem at its source. But the hard part is, we may not be able to do it in this life. We can choose the right sun protection equipment such as umbrellas, sun protection clothing, sun hats, sunglasses and masks when outdoor activities. In addition, develop a good habit of applying sunscreen 365 days a year, otherwise all subsequent whitening work is useless.
It is necessary to correct several common misunderstandings:
All you need is sun protection in summer and sunny days.—— ×
Ultraviolet rays are always present regardless of climatic conditions such as overcast, rain, and snow. Especially UVA rays are stronger on sunny days than on sunny days, and UVB is rare on cloudy days.—— √
No sun protection is needed indoors.—— ×
Sunscreen is also required in rooms with glass because glass cannot block UV rays.—— √
You can use sunscreen-free makeup products without applying sunscreen.—— ×
Cosmetic products with sun protection value cannot replace the role of sunscreen. The amount of make-up products (especially pre-moisturizers and barriers with sun protection value) and the content of sunscreen agents directly determine the fact that their sun protection capacity is insufficient.—— √
Sun protection products can generally be divided into:
First, physical sunscreen (common physical sunscreen agents include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) advantages: mild, stable, very suitable for pregnant women, infants and sensitive muscles. But physical sunscreens are generally heavy, sticky, and easy to whiten.
Second, chemical sun protection. Advantages: light, dry, non-whitening, and better skin feel.
No matter which one of the two, or the more common combination of physical and chemical sunscreens on the market, must have the effect of blocking UBA and UVB at the same time to be an excellent sunscreen.
️When choosing, you need to consider all factors based on your skin type, use occasion, and UV index. Dry skin and sensitive skin should avoid alcohol-based sunscreen. Oily skin is recommended to choose a lotion-like sunscreen with a refreshing texture. It is enough to choose a sunscreen product with an SPF value of 30 for daily commuting sunscreen. It is not recommended to choose a waterproof product except summer, which will make makeup removal more difficult. However, outdoor activities, such as travel and sports that need to be exposed to the sun for a long time, need to choose waterproof and anti-perspirant, SPF50 or above products to better care for the skin.
In addition to innate genetic decisions, our skin color is also affected by UV, endocrine, and pigmentation after inflammation, especially UV. When our skin is exposed to the sun for a long time, ultraviolet rays will stimulate melanin cells to produce melanin, and then the enzyme activity of tyrosinase will increase, which will further promote the synthesis of melanin.
For each link of the process of blackening, whitening is mainly achieved through four channels:
- Inhibit melanin synthesis by tyrosinase
- Inhibit melanin transport
- Peel off the cuticles
Common whitening ingredients are:
① Antioxidant ingredients
Such as vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, natural astaxanthin, β-carotene, plant active selenium, anthocyanins, tea polyphenols, coenzyme Q10, grape seed extract, lutein and resveratrol Alcohols, etc., which can neutralize free radicals. Studies have shown that signals released by free radicals can accelerate the secretion of melanin, and antioxidants can reduce the production of melanin while eliminating free radicals.
②Interfering with tyrosinase
Such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, etc. Their working principle is to confuse tyrosinase, making it unable to use melanin’s raw material, tyrosine, to successfully interfere with the production process of melanin.
③Inhibiting the transport of melanin
Such as nicotinamide. It can prevent melanin from being transported to the stratum corneum, forcing melanin to naturally break down inside the cells, while maintaining the original fairness of the complexion.
④ Components that accelerate keratin metabolism
Generally it is a variety of acids, such as acid, salicylic acid and so on. After the production of melanin, it needs to travel through layers of cells to reach the epidermis and stratum corneum, so that our eyes can become visible black. Acids can accelerate the metabolism of cells, make the aging cutin peel off with melanin, and the new skin will show a brighter complexion.
It can be seen that the ultimate meaning of whitening ingredients lies in inhibiting the production of melanin and interrupting the transport of melanin. However, the first and third types of ingredients stand out with their excellent feeling of use and mildness. They are not as easy to cause allergic reactions as VC and acids, they are more stable and easier to save, and they are also very strong. Comprehensive performance.